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The
ancient Messapic city of Bitonto (formerly Butuntum, 18 km from Bari), was a
Greek colony and later a
Roman Municipality; it was sacked in the Byzantine era by Catapano Zaccaria and
flourished again under various feudal dominions. In 1734, within the city walls,
Charles III defeated Austrian troops bringing to an end Bitonto's dominion by
the Realm of Naples. It has the most harmonious cathedral in Apulia: it is
completely intact,
the facade,
the sides, and
internally the crypt; it is one of the most complete creations of Italian
architecture.
If
we travel 13kms from Bitonto we come to Terlizzi, with its Oratory of the Rosary
which goes back to 1200; a further 4 km
brings us to Ruvo di Puglia
with its splendid cathedral. Particularly interesting is the bell tower
which is completely separate from the main body of the church.
The Jatta Museum in Ruvo is definitely worth visiting. From Ruvo, along a road
with panoramic views, we come to Castel del Monte. Frederick II's manor house
and hunting lodge and a work of art in terms of vernacular architecture, this
massive hexagonal structure anticipated renaissance buildings.
Continuing
our journey we come to Spinazzola, which stands on an ancient Roman site. The
town today, however, is of Medieval origin. Pope Innocence XII was born here.
Next
we come to Minervino Murge, nicknamed the "balcony of Apulia" for its
magnificent position from which it dominates the Murge.
Canosa
is of considerable historical and archaeological importance. According to the
ancients, Canosa (Canusium) was founded by Diomedes.
The city, which was one of the most important in Apulia, reached its peak
in the first and second centuries B.C. In Norman times, Canosa was important
from a military point of view. The diocese of the city is the oldest in Apulia,
dating back to 374. Vases made in Canosa - multicoloured and bearing figures -
were famous in ancient times and are still in great demand today as collectors'
items.
In the local park you can find a number of columns which were once
part of the Roman amphitheatre and not far from Canosa is a Roman Arch
over which ran the Via Traiana, and a Roman bridge which spans the river Ofanto.
Continuing
our journey along trunk road no.93 we come to the "Masseria San
Vincenzo". If we turn off here, and continue on for a
few hundred metres we come to the archaeological area of Canne della
Battaglia where, on the 2nd August in the year 16 B.C., the
Carthaginians, led by Hannibal, defeated the Roman army.
Next
we go on to Andria which is particularly famous for the Church of St. Francis,
begun in 1230 and finally finished in 1346 by Bonanno of Barletta: it has a
wonderful Baroque belfry.
The original church, dating back to the 12th century, is now the
crypt and houses the tomb where Frederick II's wives are buried. The lower part
of the belfry dates back to 1100.
Leaving
Andria we reach the coastline of Barletta (12 KM), a city of pre-Roman origin
and today an important commercial town with many splendid monuments such as the
solidly-built Castle, overlooking the sea and the "Cantina della
Disfida", site
of an important historical event in 1503. Monsignor de La Motte, who was
with the French army at Ruvo planning
besiege
Barletta (at the time under the rule of Consalvo di Cordova), during
supper with Diego de Mendoza, captain of the Spanish army, accused the Italians
of cowardice. However another Spanish officer pointed out that Ettore Fieramosca
had asked to challenge the French but had been turned down. De La Motte
therefore replied by saying that if there were any Italians in Barletta
willing to fight, the French were ready for battle. On the Italian side there
was:
Ettore
Fieramosca of Capua, Captain Fanfulla of Lodi, Giovanni Capaccio of Rome,
Giovanni Brancaleone of Rome, Ettore Giovenale of Monte Siciliano, Lodovico
Annibale of Terni, Marco Carellario of Naples, Miale of Troia, Mariano Abignante
of sarno, Romanello of Forlė and Ricco de Parma of Vasto. The
13 French cavaliers were led into battle by De La Motte himself and were
defeated.
In
the Art Gallery there is a collection of paintings by the famous
19th century artist, De Nittis . The Church of Saint Andrew
with its Romanesque portal and Palazzo Della Marta in Baroque style are also
worth visiting.
Going
back down the coast about 14 km. towards Bari we come to Trani, a fashionable
town and resort of great historical tradition. It boasts a magnificent
Romanesque Cathedral which overlooks the sea. It has a portal with
bronze doors, attributable to the sculptor, Barisano of Trani (1179). The
inside of the Cathedral has been renovated and has a nave and three aisles and a
crypt with superb marble columns. It has an aerial belfry with a pointed spire.
Another important church worth visiting is All Saints (12th century)
which belonged to the Order of Knights Templars; it has a double portal and a
beautiful apse. Also worth seeing is the elegant Palazzo Caccetta (1458),
which is late Gothic; the Swabian-Angevin Castle and other churches such as the
little Basilica of Saint Andrew's, built in the Byzantine style and Saint
Francis', which was originally Byzantine. At Capo Colonna we can visit the
ancient Benedictine abbey.
8
KM from Trani is Bisceglie, which
also has a small port, typical of this area. Worth visiting here are St.
Margaret's Church (1197), which houses the tombs of the Falcone family, St.
Adoneo (11th century) and the Romanesque Cathedral with its wooden
chancel dating back to the 1500s. A few kilometres away, in open countryside,
surrounded by olive trees, stands a prehistoric "dolmen", which is
thought to have marked a burial site; it was built with stone slabs.
The town of Molfetta is just 9 km. from Bisceglie and has a charming Old Town
and a typical fishing port dominated by the Romanesque Cathedral (Cattedrale
Vecchio). The Cathedral has three pyramid-shaped domes and two tower belfries.
2Kms away is the "pulo",
a large stalactite cave where remains of a neolithic village have been
found. Not far from Molfetta is Giovinazzo , with its characteristic harbour and
charming Old Town.
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