Castles
No
less than twenty castles make the Salento area itself into one huge fort, a
rock-like bastion, which together with coastal towers and internally fortified
farmhouses, have stood against the hundreds of invasions which through the
centuries have made this region a conquered land or a land to conquer for
Normans, Swabians, Angevins, Aragonese, Spanish, Venetians and Saracens.
The actual lay-out of nearly
all Salento’s castles dates back to the Renaissance period (15th and 16th
century), even if is often the case that earlier structures have been built into
various complexes, as for example in the case of the castles in Copertino,
Gallipoli, Otranto, Acquarica del Capo, Presicce, Morciano di Leuca and Roca
Vecchia.
Emblematic of this are Lecce’s Carlo V castle (built between 1539 and 1549)
and the fortified town of Acaja with its moat and bastions,(in the Vernole
zone), just a few kilometres from the regional centre of Lecce. Here we are face
to face with two of the finest examples of Renaissance military architecture,
not only in terms of the Salento area but nationally, the work of the great
architect Gian Giacomo of Acaja, dear to the heart of the same emperor Carlo V.
Recently Lecce’s castle has resumed its most natural function of being a
cultural centre, something the town is envied for by many provinces.
A mention apart for the castle in Corigliano d’Otranto, a superb synthesis of
military practicality and artistic beauty. It is the most decoratively rich in
the region and among the most visited and admired castles in the South of Italy.
Fortified
farmhouses
Fortified buildings are more
common in the south of the peninsular which was for a long time a Christian
outpost against the infidels: superb military works remain in Salve (which in
1537 was subject to strong attacks by Algerian Corsairs), Morciano di Leuca (Castromediano
Castle), Giuliano and Salignano (Castrignano del Capo), Alessano (fortified
residence of the Gonzaga family), Acquarica del Capo, with a Sforzesco castle of
the 15th century, Scorrano, Taurisano, Tricase, with the impressive fourteenth
century Palazzo Gallone mirrored in style by the intact 13th century castle in
Depressa and the 14th century castles of Trane di Tutino, Racale, Parabita,
Palmariggi. Otranto also mirrors the Gallone building in style, and with the
splendour of its castle and Alfonsine tower, which once witnessed scenes of
desperate resistance, the castle of Acquaviva in Nardò, Gallipoli (which
includes Byzantine and Angevin fortifications, with Rivellino from 1522 and
powerful bastions), Galatone, Copertino (which has a strong 15th century castle,
decorated with a triumphal arch and with a Paleochristian crypt annexed), and
finally Castro, the castle here was built on the remains of the ancient Roman
rock which overlooked the Otranto canal and watched over the sea.
Towers
Consideration
of the destiny of the castles requires consideration of the coastal towers and
the numerous fortified farmhouses in the Terra d’Otranto area, the former are
spread in an ideal chain as sentinels along the Ionian and Adriatic coastlines
to sight Saracen ships, the latter strategically placed in the Lecce, Nardò and
Ugento regions, protagonists in the 15th and 16th centuries of events on an epic
scale (the struggle against Turkish invasion and against brigands of all types,
the struggle of the land-owning class against populist threats, the struggle of
the peasant for survival).
The
watch and signal towers, built in the late 16th century (the tower at Leverano
is older dating back to the 13th century, while, visible from Lecce, the
cylindrical tower of Belloluogo and Parco date back to the 14th and 15th century
respectively), are, in their severe austerity, real jewels of military
architecture and add a great deal of character to the Salentine coast. A tourist
comes across them everywhere, and it is always a nice surprise to see them
against the skyline, when the sun sets on the sea, a symbol of history which, in
this area, tells of pirates, wars, betrayals and defeats.
Standing
out majestically on the Adriatic coast are the following: we start from Torre
Specchiolla (Torre = tower) and go
to Torre Rinalda, from Torre Chianca to the remains of Torre Veneri, from Torre
Specchia Ruggeri (Vernole) to San Foca and Torre dell’Orso, from Torre Santo
Stefano to Torre del Serpe, both in the Otranto district, from Torre
Sant’Emiliano to Torre di Minervino (which overlooks the Porto Badisco inlet),
from the towers of Diso, Andrano, Tricase, Tiggiano,
Alessano to the tower of Omo Morto (Dead man), which survives dauntless at the
southernmost tip of the peninsular Leuca, to go on to the Ionian towers,
starting from Torre Vado, above the port, Torre Pali almost drowning in the sea,
Torre Mozza and San Giovanni (Ugento), Torre Suda (Racale), Torre Sabea in
Gallipoli, the spectacular Torre delle Quattro Colonne (tower with four columns)
and the solemn Torre dell’Alto in Nardò, clinging to an enchanting promontory
where you can look down the coast until it disappears in the distance, finishing
with Torre Sant’Isidoro and Torre Squillace, within view of the towers of
Porto Cesareo further north.
To complete the architectural
panorama of the Salento area the evocative remains of peasant civilisation must
not be forgotten, the buildings known everywhere as «paiare» must not be
omitted. These «trulli» or conical structures are scattered all over the
countryside and for centuries served as shelter for shepherds or agricultural
labourers, they were the very first works of anthropography in rural spaces.
A
white civilisations
It is these stones, together
with other original constructions such as ovens, underground oil-presses of
Vernole, Sternatia, Copertino, Cutrofiano, Morciano di Leuca, Gallipoli and
Galatina, the dove towers, the «neviere» or stone huts of Lecce, Trepuzzi,
Calimera, Acaja, Messapian vases, cisterns, the pointed trulli of Specchia,
Otranto and Borgagne, the hay barns of Calimera and Martano, the shelters with
steps in Capo di Leuca, the apiaries, the hand crafted vases and wells and the
thousands of seasonal shelters made from stone and planted in every corner of
the province, that create a white civilisation which is the only true definitive
discriminating element of the Salento which symbolises it all over the world. A
white, Greek and Mediterranean heritage, which in its stones (from primordial to
religious, civil and military architecture) finds its interpretation which is
both astonishing and continually alive.
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