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Extending
for more than 150 kilometres between the two seas which have modelled its
morphology and history, the Salento has an enchanting and evocative coastline.
The
East Cost
Anyone
who would like to do a round tour of the two seas, a little more than 200
kilometres, should leave from
Casalabate, a beach not far from the Santa Maria di Cerrate Abbey in Squinzano,
and follow the low and sandy coast south, through Torre Rinalda, Torre Chianca
and Frigole, shaded by pinewoods, as far as San Cataldo, with the remains of the
Messapian town «Lupiae» and of Adrian’s Roman port, and then continue along
the panoramic state road 611 as far as the «Cesine», one of the most
interesting and evocative marsh lands in Europe, protected by an international
convention. A visit to the area, part of the Vernole district, is enriched by
marshes, and bogs, and a volunteer guide is available from the WWF offering you
the possibility to admire the various natural habitats, from dunes to salt
marshes, from reeds to oak and pine woods, to woodland with myrtle, masitic tree
and broom, a refuge for numerous animal and vegetable species and transit
crossroads for some migratory birds.
From
here, going towards Otranto, passing the bathing resorts of San Foca, Roca
Vecchia, Torre dell’Orso and Sant’Andrea, places which are still intact and
uncontaminated, protected by low pine woods which slope down to the sand dunes,
and port of call for lovers of sailing and sea recreation.
Roca
Vecchia is a Messapian centre built on a prehistoric settlement. Excavations
have brought to light the huge stone blocks of the surrounding walls and a
necropolis with numerous rectangular tombs sculpted in the rock and a funeral
hoard from the 4th-3rd century BC, mostly vases, red figures and «trozzelle»
Messapian vases.
The Alimini lakes announce your imminent arrival in Otranto. They are two
mirrors of water of varying saltiness with freshwater streams which run parallel
to the coast, noticeable for their swamp vegetation and thick reeds which are
home to rare vegetable species, such as insect-eating grass, marsh orchids and
Salentine heather. An oasis of fauna protection, the lakes are a destination for
coots and herons.
Otranto
is one of the most exciting sea resorts in the district. Its history of
martyrdom to the wrath of the Saracens-who left a desert of tears and blood in
their wake, and pearls of their civil, military and religious architecture
suspended in a Levant atmosphere-is enough to make this an elite tourist resort
throughout the year. From Palascia Point, the most eastern extremity of Italy,
on a clear day you can sea the Albanian coast and mountains. Otranto is a
Byzantine heart, a Saracen memory, the mosaic of life in its cathedral is the
miraculous bestiary of a patient monk who, one by one, positioned the
multicoloured tiles of life. To see this is to change forever.
The coastal road which wends its way towards Castro is one of the most alluring
touristic routes in the region, with its ups and downs which sometimes reach
heights of eighty metres above the sea, and its winding route, it seems to have
been planned by nature to hold the interest of a traveller in search of new
emotions. Softening the bitterness of the rock, constantly beaten by wind, the
devoted olives cling to the hills and valleys seeming to almost lap the blue
stretch of sea.
Here everything sucks you into a
whirlwind of history, nature and legends: after Torre del Serpe, symbol of the
Otrantian city and metaphorically bloodied by its bauxite deposits, Porto
Badisco, miniature fjord and prehistoric sanctuary, immersed in oleanders and
cactuses; sulphuric Santa Cesarea Terme, renowned for its water therapy for its
four caves and health tourism. From the viewpoint there your gaze can wander as
far as the diaphanous Leuca, in a richly painted mosaic of buildings in Moorish
and Mediterranean style whose colours are diluted in the deep green of the woods
and pines and in the typical colours of Mediterranean vegetation.
On
the edge of this splendid terrace cliffs descend vertically to the sea and to
the huge «Romanelli» and «Zinzulusa» caves, these take you back to darker
times, magnificent in their natural habitat and for the scenery which they frame.
Diving into this sea is a fantastic experience that tourists will savour and
remember, for the crystal clearness of the sea and for this opportunity to enter
prehistoric temples.
Dominating the scene is Castro, from the height of its old town and castle which
counterpoise the port and make this one of the most fascinating coves in the
region, deserving of its Blue Flag from the European Community for the cleanness
of its sea. The sea is just as crystalline and inviting at Andrano, famous for
its «Grotta Verde» (green cave) with its bulbous stalactites, and which also
has the European Blue Flag, which extends as far as Tricase, with its port and
evocative «Canale del Rio» which is full of fish, parallel to Marina Serra,
where giants’ whims have created fantastic precipices which plunge into the
sea. Not far from here is the centuries old oak «Vallonea» the oak of a
thousand horsemen, an, amazing natural monument planted by Basilian monks in the
thirteenth century and once used by local people for curing leather.
Further on are: the «Canale della
Torre del Ricco» in Corsano, Novaglie’s clear blue promontory (Gagliano del
Capo), another sea ravine, the «Canale del Ciolo» with homonymous prehistoric
cave and panoramic bridge, and the Bocche di Terrarico caves in Gagliano del
Capo, spectacular for their light and reflections.
The
West Coast
After
Punta Ristola the scenery changes perceptibly. Low cliffs and stretches of sand
interrupt the high precipices of before, red earth and vineyards come into view
interspersed with sixteenth century towers and umbrella laden beaches, with
hotels and hostels and tourist villages. Stories of Barbarian incursions give
each place its name: Torre dell’Omo Morto (dead man’s tower) and Torre
Marchiello (Castrignano del Capo), Torre Vado (Morciano di Leuca), Torre Pali
(Salve), Torre Mozza and Torre San Giovanni (Ugento), Torre Suda (Racale), beach
resorts and also centres of winter tourism, that have succeeded in linking their
natural beauty with historical finds and local culture, making this part of the
peninsular a formidable touristic enterprise that can supply interest and
information in the area throughout the year.
Of particular interest for naturalists in this part of the coast are the Ugento
inlets, these constitute another amazing nature reserve, a damp zone
characterised by its marshland of rushes and reeds (which are used in one of
Salento’s most typical handicrafts) and which is also a migratory passage for
beautiful birds such as royal swans.
«Paiare»
(stone huts) and dry stone walls punctuate the coast until the Ionian reveals,
in all its beauty Gallipoli, the «beautiful» city («kalè polis» in Greek),
seemingly an island, with its dazzling church domes. Justly famous Gallipoli is,
with Lecce, Otranto and Leuca, one of the marvels of the Mediterranean and worth
a prolonged visit.
The medieval town centre is full of narrow winding alleys which almost burst
into the houses, bastions, castle and churches. There is a Greek fountain
re-done in the Renaissance period and Baronial houses which offer a rare
attraction and render a holiday spent in the warm embrace of this town’s
hospitality more than usually instructive. Then there is the whiteness of the
houses, a dazzling whiteness, against which the garden and balcony flowers and
foliage stand out, as in a Lusitanian court, combining with the scents of the
sea, its sun-cooked people and its stormy and salty winds.
Looking
out to sea is the church if «Saint Francis of Assisi», with its «Malladrone»,
with its dreadful D’Annuzio-style beauty, and the «Purità» church of the
port unloaders, almost wanting to remind
us of the weak power of the quotidian when confronted with Creation’s marvels.
Continuing
the tour we come to Lido Conchiglie (Shell Beach), a stretch of dunes, the
spectacular Montagna Spaccata (split mountain), and then immediately the Nardò
riviera: Santa Maria al Bagno, already famous for its thermal waters and for the
Roman gate is also a merry beach resort, and Santa Caterina, protected by «Torre
dell’Alto» which
dominates from «dirupo della Dannata» (the crag of the damned woman) with the
Capelvenere and Uluzzo caves. Whilst inviting and transparent these waters are
also those of Uluzzo bay, with the added attraction of the prehistoric archives
within the Uluzzo and Cavallo caves.
The Capitano swamps are worth an individual mention, karst wells and gorges
where you can smell tamarisk, sage and prickly rushes; the intense colours of
the resurgent sea water serve as a background to this Mediterranean flora,
offering the ideal environment for many animal species.
As testimony to the times of incursions and alarms, once again the landscape is
one of towers. From Torre Inserraglio, Torre Sant’Isidoro and Torre Squillace,
still in the Nardò district, to the superb Torre Porto Cesareo and Torre
Chianca (Porto Cesareo), the coast follows a knotty route, interrupted by small
inlets with crystal clear waters.
Porto Cesareo, once a centre for
Basilian monks, is today a sizeable tourist resort, with 17 kilometres of
beaches offering all conveniences which look towards an archipelago of small
islands, the most notable of which is the «Isola dei Conigli» or Rabbit Island.
Proteso per più di 150
chilometri tra i due mari che ne hanno modellato morfologia e storia, il Salento
ha uno sviluppo costiero altamente suggestivo e incantevole.
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