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A
very rich historical past
The
Salento area’s link with prehistory is a feminine one: on one side of the
peninsular are the splendid and fertile Veneri di Parabita (Parabita Venuses),
the big mother figures with pronounced maternal attributes, carved in bone,
dating back 15,000 years and currently preserved (mould) in Maglie’s Civic
Museum of Palaeontology e Palaeo-ethnology, together with an extraordinary
repertoire of fossil remains representative of Salento’s prehistoric fauna; on
the other, the Adriatic side, the Neolithic Grotta dei Cervi (Deer Cave) at
Porto Badisco is one of the most impressive examples of rupestrian (rock)
painting in Europe, with more than 3,000 pictograms in okra and bat’s guano,
characterised by the intense movement in the narrative: dances, deer-hunting
scenes, geometric and shaman figures.
Beneath
the cliffs of Castro is Grotta Romanelli (Romanelli Cave), home of Palaeolithic
Man in Italy, it has what must be the first Puglian graffiti revealing a
mythology based on sexual symbolism, and Grotta Zinzulusa, with its fantastic
spectacle of stalactites and stalagmites, accessible from a steep path (that has
been cordoned-off for ease of use) or from the sea.
Further
South, at Capo di Leuca, the Southernmost point there are antelucan caves:
Grotta Tre Porte (Three Door Cave), Grotta dell’Elefante and Grotta dei
Giganti (The Giants’ Cave), where pachydermic (belonging to thick-skinned,
four-legged animals i.e. an elephant or a rhinoceros) bones and teeth have been
found, and Grotta del Diavolo (Devil’s Cave), which has brought to light
hearthstones, utensils and pottery from the Neolithic period. There are also
other sea caves which can often be reached by land and provide the ancestral
memory of this outermost strip of the peninsular, also undisputed home of the
rare Salentine lily and of Pellegrino hawks.
From
Punta Ristola up to the Bay of Uluzzo on the Ionian side the coast is wild and
studded with dozens of caves, unique in its colours,
reflections and
play of light. Near Porto Selvaggio Nature Park two caves, Grotta del Cavallo (Horse
Cave) and Grotta di Uluzzo, open on to the sea, these caves have revealed
Palaeolithic deposits, handmade objects and large mammal remains, exceptional
fossil finds here have provided palaeontologists from all over the world with
new keys and directions for reading and research, the seal on the Salento’s
qualification as a an invaluable open-air Prehistoric and Protostoric mine of
inestimable documentary value in Europe.
The
first Salentine Totem, the «Venus» discovered thirty years ago in Parabita is
said to be a harbourer of good fortune, a masterly essence of femininity and
fertility on a par with the most famous Austrian Venus in Willendorf. If the
totem is propitious the Salentine Megaliths are enigmatic both in themselves and
in their final destination.
The
megaliths are spread all over the province and can probably be dated back to the
Bronze Age, they are therefore chronologically later than the analogous and
impressive megalith phenomenon which developed along the
Atlantic coasts of Europe. Menhir, dolmen and specchie (mounds) represent one of
the most spectacular and also most mysterious moments of old Salentine history,
placed as they are between legend and supposition, in the mortifying absence of
certainty.
As
the first civilised and organised inhabitants of the area now occupied by the
provinces of Lecce, Brindisi and Taranto, the Messapians created a civilisation
that was very advanced for its time, evidence of which, sometimes very
impressive evidence, has come
to light in recent years, during the numerous excavations that have taken and
are taking place all over the area.
If the
memory of the old sites has been destroyed beneath the modern town plans of
Lecce, Torre San Giovanni, Porto Cesareo, Otranto and Santa Maria di Leuca, the
fate of other Messapian centres is very different and archaeological surveys
have had more luck in: Rudiae, with the remains of a nymphaeum and an
amphitheatre; Cavallino, with its miles of walls and five entrances; Roca
Vecchia (Melendugno), with its craters and the Grotta della Poesia (Cave of
Poetry), a splendid natural temple for Mediterranean navigators; Muro Leccese
and Vaste (part of Poggiardo’s territory) with burial sites, silver treasures
and Greek-made objects.
Archaeological and epigraphical heritage of great interest can be admired at
Lecce’s Provincial Museum (the oldest in the region), Gallipolli’s Civic
Museum, Alezio’s Archaeological Park, Ugento’s Civic Museum, and for an
overall picture in Taranto’s National Museum, full of statues, Messapian vases,
fibulas, craters, painted and glazed pottery, lamps, imported and local
terracotta. These are the careful custodians of an original and tapestried past
which was alive a long time before the Greek colonisation of the power and
inspiration of this people of two seas.
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