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Salentine
Greece is a geographical air-pocket which speculates on the Greek colonisation
and the progressive Hellenisation of Southern Italy, it now includes the
districts of Calimera, Castrignano dei Greci, Corigliano d’Otranto, Martano,
Martignano, Melpignano, Soleto, Sternatia and Zollino, in the heart of the east
Salento region, where traces of the Greek-Byzantine civilisation linger on and
Griko, the idiom or dialect which is surprisingly close to modern Greek, still
survives. The Greek enclave can be easily reached by car from Lecce, Otranto,
Gallipoli and Santa Maria di Leuca.
«We
are Greeks, and this ensures our glory», wrote Galateo, and he is right. Not
only in the legends which portray nearly all these villages as miraculously
escaping from the hurricanes and typhoons, usually owing to the intercession of
Eastern saints, Salentine Greece is still rich in amazing historical and
artistic remains, which range from menhirs, dolmen and specchie or mounds/cairns
(the famous Specchia dei Mori, in Martano) to «pietra forata» or «fertility
stone» in Calimera, in San Vito church, which in terms of the symbolism of
purification and rebirth recalls analogous propitiatory rites of neighbouring
Greece; from the stately beautiful icons in Baseline coenobies to the crypts
(San Biagio’s crypt in Calimera is in the homonymous natural-archaeological
park; that of Sant’Onofrio in Castrignano dei Greci dates back to the 6th
century, while San Sebastian crypt in Sternatia dates back to 1100), to monastic
centres, to castles (in particular Corigliano d’Otranto’s castle, from the
15th century, and the Granafei fort in Sternatia), to churches (the B aroque
Agostinian convent complex in Melpignano, Sternatia’s bell tower and Soleto’s
Gothic spire; also the frescoes in Soleto, in the 4th century church Santo
Stefano, and the parish dedicated to Assunta, in Martano are among the most
impressive), to the noble houses in Martano, Corigliano d’Otranto, Calimera
and Martignano, and up to the typical «pozzelle» in Castrignano dei Greci, di
Soleto and di Zollino, old underground engineering for rain water conservation.
If there is one thing which these villages have in common it is the survival or
memory of Greek rites, which were widespread here until the 17th century, and of
the Greek gloss, roots of which are buried in local toponymy and in the
originality of the architecture (the communal courtyards painted in blinding
white, the balconies, the rhombus shaped decorations), of the habits and customs
which make this area the only one in the world and as such worthy of attention
in terms of cultural tourism.
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