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Taranto is a modern
city that still keeps an ancient heart. It stands on a shoreline
famous for its beauty, balanced between the Mar Grande and the
Mar Piccolo. In the northern part of the city there are the calm
waters of the Mar
Piccolo, at the southern end the grandeur of
the Mar Grande bursting in the Gulf of Taranto (on the
Ionian Sea). The secret of its glamour is there, in the Small
and Big Sea. The swing bridge is the connection between the past
and the present, the island of the città vecchia and Taranto.
It is mainly in the old town and in the National Museum that one
can find evidence of the glorious history of Taranto, colony of
Sparta and capital of the Magna Graecia. Taranto was founded
around 700 B.C. The advantage of the city’s extraordinary
location helped reach its period of biggest prosperity in the
IVth c. B.C. Because
of its strategic position Taranto suffered from the invasion of
Bizantines, Ostrogoths, Saracens,Normans, Swabians, Angevins and
Aragoneses. Their domination left a mark on the architecture and
civilization of Taranto and its "città vecchia". After Napoleon Taranto went into
decline until it was liberated in 1860 by the troops of
Garibaldi. In 1866 the Italian government turned the town back
into the biggest Italian naval base.
Our visit starts from
piazza Fontana. The "Marina" is in via Cariati, where
the fishers stop their boats every day to sell fresh and tasty
fishes, octopus, mussels and oysters.
Most of
Taranto occupied the "città vecchia" until the last
century, when the peninsula was turned into an island connected
to the town by the stone bridge and by the swing bridge.
The
historical center is a peculiar network of narrow alleys
surrounded by elegant and poor houses, restored or decaying
buildings. From Via Garibaldi you will arrive in an area of the
old town where the restoration of buildings have been completed.
Following
Via Cava you will get to the back side of the cathedral (1071).
No one can miss this splendid monument, which is one of the
oldest Romanesque churches in Apulia. The cathedral is dedicated
to the Patron of the city, San Cataldo, who was bishop of Rachan,
Ireland. Restructured, modified and burnt down several times
through the centuries, the cathedral has a baroque facade of the
early XVIIIth century. The baptismal font is surmounted by a
XVIth century canopy. The impressive interior is characterized
by a wide navy and two aisles supported by marble columns that
are decorated by carved capitals (Romanesque, Arab, Bizantine,
Longobard style). The floor still keeps some remains of its
original mosaic paving. The central nave is covered by a
beautiful wooden coffer ceiling from the XVIIth century. At the
interior the attention is attracted by the transept and the
cupola. They belonged to a bizantine church of the Xth and XIth
century which was latinized in 1170. The cathedral contains an
interesting crypt, under the High Altar, which has bizantine
frescoes of the XIIth century. The outstanding chapel of San
Cataldo is a blooming collection of inlaid marbles, statues and
frescoes of the end of XVIIIth century. The imposing altar holds
the bones of San Cataldo and a silver statue of the Patron.
The other
interesting church to see is San Domenico Maggiore. It was built
on the ancient San Pietro Imperiale in 1300 and repeatedly
modified. The façade has a baroque double staircase and a
central rose-window. It keeps several baroque altars and the
statue of Our Lady of Sorrows. The faithfuls carry her statue in
a pitcuresque parade on Holy Thursday at midnight. On its left
stands the noble Palazzo Pantaleo, gorgeous entertainment office
of the Municipality. Other remarkable residences are: Palazzo
Carducci and Palazzo D’Aquino.
The Ringhiera is the sea-front from where
one can admire the light blue of the
Mar Grande. The sandy beaches and pine-woods of Cheradi Islands
are in front of the old town.
In Piazza
Castello there are the castle, the town hall and the Doric
temple. Nowadays the castello hosts the head quarters of the
Navy, but it was built more than 500 years ago by the Aragoneses.
The cylindrical towers date back to the primitive construction
(1492) which was enlarged by the Spaniards.
The ruins of a great Doric temple consecrated to Neptune
are represented by two tall columns (VIth c. B.C.). The deep
channel allows the crossing of militar and civil ships going
from Mar Grande to Mar Piccolo and vice versa. The swing bridge
is the entrance to the city.
The National
Museum faces the beautiful gardens of Piazza Garibaldi. It is
considered one of the most important archeological museums in
Southern Italy for its wide collection that gives visitors a
complete view of the Magna Graecia civilization. The history of
Grecian Taranto can be read in the precious art exhibits of the
museum. Most of the rich collection of terracotta objects,
ceramics and jewels come from the tombs of the necropolis on
which modern Taranto has been built.
Rare
patterns of Laconia ceramics (made in Sparta) are evidence of
trade relationships between colony and mother-country.
The
priceless gold jewellery collection dates back to the height of
Taranto (IVth - IIIrd century B. C.) when local artists designed
masterpieces of jewellery. Among all the most remarkable is a
set of jewels found in the famous grave of Canosa. There is one
more museum attached to the Thalassografic Institute. Close to
it is Villa Peripato, a public garden full of tall palms and
pines.
To go deep
into the spirit of Taranto one must visit the town during the
Holy Week.
The rites
are about the commemoration of the Passion and Death of Christ.
They are barefoot tunic and have their heads covered by a hood
with two small eye-holes. The whole parade recalls some ancient
Spanish rites that Taranto probably inherited from the long
domination of Spaniards. The Holy Week begins the Sunday before
Easter.
The
Concattedrale and the Punta Penna Bridge are the most
interesting areas of the new town. The Concattedrale (1970) was
planned by the architect
Ponti. The Punta Penna bridge (1978) gives direct access to the
new city jumping over Mar Piccolo.
The
outskirts are full of beautiful beaches and small seaside
resorts along the N-W and S-E coast that stretch on a light blue
clean sea.
The
inland culture has strong connections with an underground
civilization which developed inside the ravines. Monks and
common people lived for centuries in deep gorges riddled with
caves, troglodyte houses and painted crypts like those in
Palagianello, Mottola and Ginosa.
Castellaneta
also rises along the ravine, but this small town is mostly known
as the birthplace of Rudolph Valentino, the Italian emigrant who
became a world known actor in the 20 century. Castellaneta has
recently opened a museum to celebrate the myth of its famous
fellow-citizen.
Crispiano
lies in the middle of a well kept country side full of
olive-trees. More than 100 ancient farms are situated around it,
some of which are opened to visitors.
The
traditional cooking offers a variety of delicious dishes based
on a combination of either fish or meat with excellent
vegetables.
The king of
the table is a locally produced olive oil. Fresh cheese and home
made pasta (orecchiette) are also very tasty. The sea supplies
very good mussels and oysters. Local wines come in a variety of
flavours and bouquets.
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